Venice

Campo dell’Angelo Raffaele, Venezia

This quiet piazza on the Dorsoduro, with a 14th century stone well head, and a pleasant restaurant (Pane, Vino e San Daniele, which, once a traditional trattoria favoured by local artists, reopened in 2004 as a fashionable outlet for San Daniele ham) can be overshadowed by vast cruise ships, but is sufficiently away from the tourist routes and near to the university to maintain the air of an inhabited community, rather than the false make-up of a prostituted city. The light here on the masonry and the washing reflects the warmth of Italy at its best.